Pacific Ocean

Around the atoll

There are numerous atolls in the Pacific Ocean - strips of land formed from coral polyps on top of submerged volcanoes, which grow outwards in perfect secluded rings. Such atolls house spectacular and intricate coral formations, complete with picturesque beaches of waving palm trees, white 'sand' and fascinating tropical debris. Any unwary visitor tempted to walk barefoot upon those beaches, however, will be in for a sharp surprise since the 'sand' underfoot is actually razor-sharp and jagged ground coral.

We are paddling around the Tikehau atoll towards the end of our 'Pacific Ocean Kayak Expedition'. More used to the harsh beauty of mountain scenery than to the sublime beauty of a tropical ocean archipelago, we are speechless at all we have encountered. The crystal-clear water, a window to the underwater world, has revealed everything from moray eels and squids to giant mantra rays during our two-week sojourn. I paddle a few strokes, hovering over a school of brightly coloured fish carpeting the ocean - angel fish, goatfish and many that I cannot name. We watch their antics until a space forms in their centre and they swiftly depart. Two sharks have come to play.

Not as nervous, now, of the sharks as I was at the start of this journey, I watch them briefly before looking back up at my surroundings. The sun is shining; the temperature is 38 degrees Celsius. There are no shadows and the light-blue sea blends into the blue sky on the horizon. Everything seems calm but there is anticipation in the air. Sure enough, dark clouds rush together as if from nowhere, and rain cascades down in bucket-loads. After a moment of relief from the heat, the sky just as swiftly turns blue again, the tropical storm whirling frantically away. This world is unlike any I have previously encountered.

I wake suddenly in the dead of the equatorial night. I am soaking in sweat but, despite opening my sleeping bag and gasping aloud, cool air is in scant supply. I lie for a while listening to nature's concert; an amalgamation of the discordant solos of thousands of grasshoppers, birds and frogs and the scuttling urgency of hundreds of tiny crabs in my tent. It is disturbing and I can't go to sleep again so I fumble about for the Vector dangling above me. It is midnight and still +29 degrees Celsius. No wonder I am sweating.

Text and image by Kari Poppis Suomela